Harar is a city that rewards getting lost. Its old town is a maze of narrow alleyways, more than three hundred of them by some counts, winding between traditional houses, mosques, shrines, and markets. I arrived expecting a historic city. I left feeling I had visited a living museum, a place where Islamic scholarship, trade, and daily life have shared the same streets for centuries.
Harar is often described as the fourth holiest city of Islam, after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. That description reflects tradition and devotion, and it gives a sense of the city's religious importance. But Harar is not only a holy city. It is a working city, full of traders, schoolchildren, coffee sellers, and families, and that everyday life is as much a reason to visit as its history.
First, the Walled City Itself
Start with the old town, known as Jugol, enclosed by historic walls with gates that once controlled entry to the city. Walking Jugol is the essential Harar experience. The alleyways are narrow, sometimes barely wide enough for two people, and they twist in ways that defeat any sense of direction. That is part of the charm, but it is also why a local guide is invaluable, at least for your first day.
The houses of Jugol are distinctive: whitewashed or brightly painted exteriors, wooden doors, and interiors traditionally decorated with niches, plates, and woven goods. Some houses welcome visitors, and a guided visit to a traditional Harari home is one of the best ways to understand local life. Ask your guide to arrange it, dress modestly, remove shoes where asked, and accept coffee or tea if offered.
Mosques and shrines are everywhere in Jugol, many of them centuries old. You do not need to enter every one. Admire their architecture from outside, visit one or two with your guide's help, and observe prayer times respectfully. Friday is a particularly communal day, and visitors should be discreet around mosques at prayer times.
The Hyena Men of Harar
One of Harar's most famous traditions is the hyena feeding, carried out by the so-called hyena men outside the city walls at night. For generations, certain families have fed wild hyenas by hand, calling them by name, in a practice that blends tradition, tourism, and a practical relationship between the city and its wildlife. Hyenas, which scavenge around the city, are fed to keep them from causing trouble, and the feeding has become a nightly ritual.
Watching it is extraordinary and a little unnerving. The hyenas emerge from the darkness, large and powerful, and take food from the feeder's mouth or hand with surprising gentleness. I watched with a mix of awe and caution, keeping my distance and following every instruction from the guide and the feeder. This is not a petting experience. These are wild animals, and they must be treated as such.
Practically, arrange the hyena feeding through your guide or hotel, confirm the timing, usually in the evening, and bring a torch for the walk to the feeding site. Do not attempt to feed hyenas yourself unless the feeder explicitly invites you and supervises you closely, and even then, think carefully. Photographs are possible, but flash photography can disturb the animals, so ask before using a flash. A small fee or tip for the feeder is customary, and your guide can advise on the amount.
The Coffee Ceremony and the Markets
No visit to Harar is complete without a coffee ceremony. Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, and Harar is one of its historic trading centres. The ceremony, roasting green beans over charcoal, grinding them, brewing in a jebena pot, and serving in small cups, often with popcorn or snacks, is performed with care and pride. Accepting coffee is accepting hospitality, so take your time and enjoy all three rounds if they are offered.
Harar's markets are equally essential. The main markets sell everything from spices, coffee, and khat to cloth, baskets, and household goods. Morning is the liveliest time, and the markets are a feast for the senses: the smell of spices and roasting coffee, the colours of cloth, the calls of traders. Bargain politely, as I describe in my market articles, bring small notes, and buy coffee beans as a souvenir, they are excellent and they travel well.
Food in Harar reflects its Muslim heritage and its trading history. Halal food is widely available, and you will find dishes shared across Ethiopia alongside Harari specialities. Eat where locals eat, ask your guide for recommendations, and try the local coffee houses, which are social institutions as much as places to drink.
Practical Guide: Getting There, Staying, and Getting Around
Getting to Harar usually involves travelling from Addis Ababa by air to Dire Dawa, followed by a road journey, or a longer overland trip. Check current transport options locally, as schedules and road conditions change, and arrange transport through your guide or hotel rather than relying on uncertain connections. Allow a full day for travel in each direction if you are going overland.
Accommodation in Harar ranges from simple guesthouses in or near the old town to more comfortable hotels in the newer part of the city. Staying near Jugol makes early morning and evening walks easier, but confirm with your hotel about safety and guidance for walking at night, especially around the hyena feeding sites. Book in advance during busy periods, and confirm your booking before arrival.
Getting around Jugol is on foot, and comfortable walking shoes are essential for uneven, narrow lanes. The newer town is easier by vehicle or on foot along wider streets. Carry water, sun protection, and a small amount of cash, and keep valuables discreet. A local guide for at least your first day is strongly recommended, not only for navigation but for introductions to houses, mosques, and markets.
How Long to Spend, and What to Prioritise
Two full days is a good minimum for Harar: one day for Jugol, its houses, mosques, and markets, and an evening for the hyena feeding, and a second day for a slower exploration, a coffee ceremony, and the newer town. If you have a third day, use it for nearby sites or simply for sitting in a coffee house and watching the city go by. Harar rewards slow travel.
Prioritise the old town walk, a traditional house visit, the hyena feeding, and a coffee ceremony. Those four experiences together give you Harar's history, daily life, wildlife tradition, and hospitality in a compact form. Everything else, museums, shrines, and markets, builds around them.
Harar left me with a feeling I have rarely had elsewhere: that I had visited a city that knows exactly what it is, and does not need to perform for visitors. It is holy, historic, commercial, and ordinary all at once. Go with respect, walk slowly, get lost in the alleyways, and let Harar introduce itself to you at its own pace.




















